Karakalpakstan

Mon 1/6/26

Today we took an excursion to the 3 ancient fortresses of Khorazm, located in the autonomous republic of Karakalpakstan, about 100km from Khiva. We booked the tour with our hotel for a driver and a car for USD 50 for both of us, which we paid by card.

We departed from our hotel  after breakfast at 9am. It was sunny and hot today, unfortunately the driver didn't switch on the car air conditioning, only opening the car window. We passed by Urgench and Amu Darya river, which serves as the border between Karakalpakstan and Khorazm region. 

Our first destination was Ayaz Kala fortress at the Kyzylkum desert, which we reached at 10.45 am. We were stopped by an elderly woman after we alighted from the car, demanding 40K UZS from the 2 of us for 'parking' and 'toilet' fees, which of course was unofficial. I managed to negotiate the fees down to 30K UZS. Partner In Crime did go to the toilet here. There were also yurt camps here for rent.

We walked a bit on the desert and climbed towards the ruins of the Ayaz Kala no.1 fortress. The fortress functioned as protection of the agricultural settlements from attacks by nomads. (from Wikipedia). From Ayaz Kala no. 1 fortress, there is a viewpoint of the second Ayaz Kala fortress. 

Kyzylkum desert with Ayaz Kala fortress in the background

Ayaz Kala no 1

Ayaz Kala no 2 view from Ayaz Kala no 1

Ayaz Kala no 1

Ayaz Kala no 1

Ayaz Kala fortress

Next destination was Toprak Kala ruins, located about 34km from Ayaz Kala fortress. It was an ancient palace city and the capital of in Chorasmia in the 2nd/3rd century CE (from Wikipedia). Again we were stopped by an elderly woman, however this time we were stopped in the middle of the road, before parking. I tried to negotiate for 20K UZS this time, as there was no toilet facilities, but failed. Since we didn't want to hold up traffic, we relented with 40K UZS 

Toprak Kala ruins

Toprak Kala ruins

Toprak Kala - stairs look newly built

The last fortress for today was Kyzyl Kala, just 4km away. Again we were stopped by yet another woman, but younger this time, again in the middle of the road, so there was no time for negotiation, hence we paid 40K UZS.

The Kyzyl Kala looked artificially re-built and didn't have much of its original ruins. It was first built in the 1st-4th century CE, possibly as a fortified defense for the site of Toprak-Kala (from Wikipedia). You could skip this one if you wanted to save 20K UZS 'parking' fee per person.

Kyzyl Kala fortress - looks artificially re-built

Kyzyl Kala - new stairs

Kyzyl Kala ruins 

On the way back, we stopped by a rest area by the Akhchakol lake, where local families were seen swimming to get a respite from the hot sun. We didn't eat at the restaurant here, there wasn't any menu or prices displayed. There was no 'parking' fee here. 

Akhchakol lake

We then returned to the hotel and reached back by 4pm.

We rested in our room for the remaining of the afternoon before going out for dinner at 7pm. We had dinner at Parvos restaurant, just outside the North Gate of Itchan Kala. We had the Khiva lagman (pulled noodle), spinach manti (dumpling) and lamb shashlik with a pot of tea for 156.4K UZS (RM 48), paid by cash.

Khiva lagman noodle, shashlik and manti

inside Parvos restaurant decor