Monday, June 05, 2023

Tataouine-Douiret

Sun 7/5/23

Today's journey would be one of our longest drive from Sfax to Tataouine which would cover 305km and take about 4 hours. Since we didn't opt for breakfast, we made an early drive out of Sfax at 7am after having instant noodle and tea for breakfast. I asked the hotel to fill in hot water in our flask as there is no jug kettle facility in the hotel room. 

We would be driving via the A1 highway again today up until Gabes. The toll today cost TND 3.6 It is possible to drive all the way to Libya, with the capital being about just 500km away from Sfax. We saw security personnel and trucks high on alert and patrol along the A1 highway. We were not stopped along the way though. 

Tripoli is just 276 km away


Our first (and only) stop for today is Ksar Ouled Soltane, a fortified storehouse built by Berber people.  It is reported to be featured in the Star Wars film. We reached the Ksar at noon when it was scorching hot, but there was no one else. So this was a good opportunity to fly the drone, and indeed the view was great! There is also a café inside the Ksar. Just after we finished flying the drone, a tour group arrived, so it was a good timing for us, not to disturb anyone. There was no entrance fee for Ksar Ouled Soltane.



Ksar Ouled Soltane

Ksar Ouled Soltane drone shot

Ksar Ouled Soltane drone shot


We were feeling hungry, so we tried to search for a restaurant. But being a Sunday, most of the restaurants were closed. Googlemaps was also not helpful again in this part of the region, giving wrong restaurant locations yet again. We finally settled for a pizza place and had pizza for lunch which cost TND 7.5. We also stopped by at Carrefour to buy some groceries like fruits, snacks and water.

After having lunch, we made our way to Douiret, is a ruined Berber village to stay there in the troglodyte houses dug in the mountain . It was previously also a ksar. The view was beautiful with the surrounding mountains. From wikipedia: In 1850, Douiret population was around 3500 inhabitants. It has been an important caravan stop between Gabès to the north and the Libyan city of Ghdamès to the south. There is also a hiking trail between Douiret and Chenini, another neighbouring Berber village. 

Our room cost EUR 112 per night per room with breakfast and featured basic amenities, paid by cash in EUR (attached bathroom though), but the surrounding views more than made up for it. There is no wifi in our room, only at the reception centre. There is also no air conditioning in the room, but because it is a troglodyte house dug in the mountain, it is naturally cool in the day when it is hot outside, and warm at night when it is cold outside. We also flew the drone here to capture the majestic views of Douiret, and hiked for a bit around the area the next morning. There is a small man made dam to catch water.

our troglodyte room

our troglodyte home

our troglodyte home 


view from our troglodyte home



man made dam

old dwellings of Douiret

man made dam

white building is the old mosque

view from our troglodyte home

having breakfast


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